In the world of men's fashion, mastering the art of suiting up is more than just putting on a suit—it's about understanding the intricate details that make a difference between looking good and looking exceptional. Whether you're a seasoned suit-wearer or just starting to build your wardrobe, these 20 essential rules and pro tips will guide you towards achieving timeless style with confidence and ease.
From the position of jacket buttons to the selection of pocket squares, each aspect of suiting up plays a crucial role in creating a polished and refined look. Let's delve into the nuances of men's fashion and uncover the secrets to dressing with sophistication and flair.
20 Rules about Suits
#1 Suit Button Position
The top button of a two-button, or the middle button of a three-button, jacket should fall right above the navel.
Pro Tip: This helps in achieving a balanced silhouette.
#2 Suit Lapel Width
Generally speaking, wide lapels are more old-fashioned and thin ones are more modern. None of them are right or wrong; they both work with your style.
Pro Tip: Choose lapel width according to your body type. Broad shoulders? Go for wider lapels.
#3 Suit Collar Fit
An ill-fitting jacket will have a gap between the shirt collar and jacket lapels. This gap can make your outfit look sloppy and unprofessional. Also consider the fit of turtlenecks and suits. The collar should fit snugly against your neck without feeling restrictive.
#4 Suit Color Coordination
Your belt and shoes should be the same color for a polished, cohesive look. This rule applies to both casual and formal attire. If you're wearing brown shoes, pair them with a brown belt. If you're wearing black shoes, opt for a black belt.
#5 Pants Storage
Utilize "The Savile Row Fold" to keep your pants from falling off the hanger. Fold the pants in half lengthwise, then fold them in half again. Finally, fold the pants in half one more time and hang them on the hanger. This method will keep your pants neatly folded and prevent them from sliding off the hanger.
#6 Suit Pocket Square Selection
Your pocket square should complement the colors of your tie and shirt, adding a stylish touch, not match them. Experiment with different patterns and textures to create a unique look. A simple white linen pocket square is a classic choice that works with any outfit.
#7 Suit Tie Length
Your tie should be long enough to reach the tip of your belt, but not longer. If your tie is too short, it can look awkward and unprofessional. If it's too long, it can appear sloppy and unkempt. The perfect tie length will elongate your torso and create a balanced silhouette
#8 Socks Length
Wear long socks to avoid exposed legs when sitting. However, you can opt to go sockless if you are following a new trend.
#9 Suit Maintenance
Always unbutton your suit when sitting down to avoid ruining it. Leaving your jacket buttoned while sitting can stretch out the fabric and cause permanent creases. Unbuttoning your jacket will help maintain its shape and ensure a crisp, professional look throughout the day.
#10 Suit Jacket Sizing
To make sure your jacket is the right size, slip your hand between your chest and jacket - it should feel snug but with some room to move. A well-fitted jacket should hug your body without feeling restrictive. If you can't easily slide your hand between your chest and the jacket, it's too tight. If there's too much space, it's too loose.
#11 Vest Button
Always keep the bottom button unbuttoned when wearing a vest. This rule applies to both single-breasted and double-breasted vests. Leaving the bottom button unbuttoned creates a more flattering silhouette and prevents the vest from pulling or straining when you sit down.
#12 Suit's Tie Color
Your tie should always be in a darker color than your shirt. A darker tie will create a slimming effect and draw the eye upward, creating the illusion of a longer, leaner torso. Avoid wearing a tie that is the same color or lighter than your shirt, as it can wash out your look.
#13 Summer Wear
In warmer weather, wear an undershirt to combat sweating. Pro Tip: Opt for a moisture-wicking fabric like cotton or polyester to keep you cool and dry throughout the day. Sweat stains can ruin the look of a crisp, tailored suit, so an undershirt is a must-have accessory for summer suiting.
#14 Sleeve Exposure
The sleeve cuffs should be exposed for about 1.5 cm (half an inch). This rule ensures that your shirt cuffs are visible and creates a polished, intentional look. If your jacket sleeves are too long, they can make your arms look shorter and your torso appear longer. If they're too short, it can look sloppy and unfinished.
#15 Double Vents
Stay trendy by adding double vents in the back of your jacket for extra style and comfort.
#16 Tie & Lapel Proportion
Match the width of your tie with the width of your lapel for a balanced look. If your tie is too wide for your lapel, it can look overpowering and out of proportion. If it's too narrow, it can look dainty and out of place. Aim for a tie width that complements your lapel size and creates a harmonious look.
#17 Classic White Shirt
Invest in one. It's versatile and can be paired with any suit or tie for a polished look. A crisp, well-fitted white shirt is the foundation of any well-dressed man's wardrobe. It's a timeless classic that never goes out of style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.
#18 Tailored Pants
Opt for these to ensure the perfect fit. Pants should be slim through the leg and only slightly break over the shoe.
#19 Patterns and Textures
Use subtle patterns and textures to add depth to your outfit, but avoid anything too bold. Pinstripes, herringbone, and houndstooth are classic patterns that can add visual interest to your suit without overwhelming your look. Textured fabrics like tweed and corduroy can also add depth and dimension to your outfit.
#20 Timeless Classic
When in doubt, go for a timeless, classic look. Trends come and go, but a well-fitted suit in a neutral color with the right accessories is always in style. A navy or charcoal gray suit paired with a white shirt and a simple tie is a foolproof combination that will never go out of fashion. It's a look that exudes confidence, sophistication, and timeless style.
With these 20 rules and pro tips, you’re well on your way to mastering the art of suiting up. Remember, confidence and a smile are the best accessories you can wear.
FAQs
Q: How should I determine the right position for my suit jacket buttons?
A: For a two-button jacket, the top button should align with the navel, while for a three-button jacket, the middle button serves the same purpose. This positioning ensures a balanced silhouette.
Q: What lapel width is considered ideal for a modern look?
A: Thin lapels are generally associated with a more contemporary style, while wider lapels evoke a classic aesthetic. Choose according to your personal preference and body type.
Q: Why is it essential to ensure a snug fit between the jacket collar and shirt lapels?
A: An ill-fitting collar can detract from the overall elegance of your outfit, creating a gap that appears sloppy and unprofessional. A proper fit enhances the cohesion of your ensemble.
Q: Should my belt always match my shoes when wearing a suit?
A: Yes, maintaining consistency between belt and shoe color enhances the overall polish of your look, whether for formal or casual attire.
Q: What's the best method for storing suit pants to prevent creases and maintain their shape?
A: Utilize "The Savile Row Fold," folding the pants in a specific manner to keep them neatly organized on the hanger and prevent them from sliding off.
Q: How do I select the perfect pocket square to complement my suit ensemble?
A: Choose a pocket square that harmonizes with the colors of your tie and shirt, adding a tasteful accent without overshadowing the rest of your outfit.
Q: What is the ideal length for a suit tie?
A: Your tie should extend to the tip of your belt, striking a balance between elegance and proportion. Avoid lengths that appear excessively short or long.
Q: Are there any guidelines for selecting the appropriate socks length for a suited look?
A: Opt for long socks to ensure coverage when seated, though the trend of going sockless can be embraced for a more contemporary flair.
Q: How should I maintain my suit's pristine condition throughout the day?
A: Always unbutton your jacket when seated to prevent fabric distortion, preserving its shape and professional appearance.
Q: What constitutes a well-fitted suit jacket?
A: A properly sized jacket should provide a snug yet comfortable fit, allowing room for movement without appearing excessively tight or loose. Check the fit by sliding your hand between the chest and jacket.
