The pea coat is a timeless wardrobe staple, known for its classic double-breasted design and naval heritage. This versatile outerwear piece has evolved from military uniform to fashion must-have, offering both style and functionality. In this guide, we'll explore the history of the pea coat, its modern adaptations, and provide expert tips on how to style this iconic jacket for various occasions.
What is a Pea Coat?
A pea coat, also called pea jacket, p coat, p jacket and peacoat, is a short double-breasted wool coat usually in navy blue. The pea coat is one of the most stylish jackets that a man can wear. It has maintained popularity for centuries, since being introduced in the 1800s. The design and fit have slightly changed over time to match modern trends, making it a flattering favourite among men around the world. It’s a style you’ll continually see every fall and winter due to its versatile design and weight. You can start using it as a light layer over a shirt or thin sweater during the fall or the beginning of spring, and add heavier knits once the temperatures continue to drop throughout the winter. For a polished look, pair your pea coat with tailored shirts for business, creating a seamless transition from casual to professional. There are seemingly endless styling and colour options when it comes to the pea coat, so we’ve put together this guide to help give you some options.
The History Of The Pea Coat
The pea coat was originally used as a military piece of clothing, more specifically for the navy. The Dutch navy created the pea coat in the 1800s as part of the navy uniform, and that is where the name originates from - “pije” means coarse wool in Dutch, the fabric used to make the pea coat. Apart from the durable wool, the pea coat featured a double-breasted silhouette for extra chest protection, a large ulster collar that could be buttoned all the way to the top, vertical slit pockets, and buttons with an anchor emblem. Later the British navy made their own version which became so popular that it made its way across the Atlantic to America. It became the most popular piece of naval outerwear because of its durability and resistance - the material could easily combat the heavy rain and winds that sailors regularly dealt with at sea. The pea coat made its way into the mainstream fashion world after World War II when surplus military clothes were widely available.
The Pea Coat Today
Over the decades, the shape of the pea coat has changed. Why when you think about a pea coat colour it is navy? The original navy pea coat was generally made of a navy color to match the rest of the navy uniform, was made with a heavy fabric to ensure warm, water-resistance, and protection, and flared out at the bottom to create ease of movement for sailors. As the pea coat turned into a fashion piece designers began experimenting with the fit and design. Nowadays pea coats come in a variety of colors and weights and also have a more tapered fit. Designers also experiment with different fabrics, like cashmere or even leather. Sometimes unique accents like leather trims are added.
A few things have stood the test of time though: the double-breasted silhouette, large collar, and functionality. Pea coats are still well-loved as a functional yet stylish type of outerwear and have definitely reached iconic menswear status.
How to Style a Pea Coat
Now that you understand why the pea coat is such a worthwhile investment piece, it’s time to learn how to style it properly. Pea coats were designed to be a protective outer layer, so you should never layer anything else over a pea coat. That being said, you can, of course, wear other accessories like scarves during the winter. Just make sure you are layering the scarf underneath the pea coat. Wear it loose to avoid making the neckline look bulky - let the collar of the pea coat be the star. You can show it off by unbuttoning your pea coat, and if you are freezing you can turn the collar up.
Though the design of the pea coat has changed, the styling rules have remained the same over the years. To follow the proper pea coat style rules, look at the jacket above. The length of the jacket should hit the bottom of the hips to define your torso. Avoid wearing a pea coat that’s too long or short, as the fit won’t look right. A pea coat that’s too long will make you lose your shape, and a pea coat that’s too short will make you look rounder than you actually are. Also, make sure the sleeves extend to the top of your hands when you’re standing up. You don’t want any long-sleeved underlayers to be able to poke out from underneath. The pea coat should be well-fitted but not too tight - you should be able to comfortably move your arms. To get the original, iconic pea coat look to keep the buttons closed.
Pea coats are a versatile piece that can be styled in many ways and for many occasions. It works for any season that requires a jacket: fall, winter, maybe even the first few months of spring if you live somewhere with a cooler climate. You can wear them on the weekend over casual pieces like jeans, chinos, sweaters, open-buttoned shirts, or even a t-shirt in the fall. With outfits like these, you can wear boots or even sneakers on your feet. If the weather is a bit cooler you can accessorize with a beanie, or perhaps layer a sweater over your shirt for warmth and interest.
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Beige Double-Breasted Coat |
Blue Peacoat |
If you have a formal dress code at work, pea coats also make an excellent outer layer. They look great styled over suits, or shirts and slacks if it’s a bit warmer. For a smart and stylish outfit layer a turtleneck sweater and slacks underneath a pea coat. You can choose to wear dress shoes or boots, most styles will look great with the pea coat. You can also apply the layered sweater and shirt combination, only with slacks and a tie instead.
For extra style points, you can pop the collar. It will keep your neck warm and give your look a true sartorial feel. However, save this trick for the winter as you might look out of place in the fall.
As we know, pea coats are now available in many different colours and variations. If you prefer a more traditional feel, choose a navy version in the classic coarse wool. However, if this is not your style then choose what feels best for you. Pea coats now come in almost any colour, so if you prefer lighter or brighter styles, go for it!
Perhaps you enjoy lighter and more luxurious fabrics. If that’s the case, find lightweight merino wool or cashmere version. You can also add extra details like belts, buttons, patches, and taping. It’s easy to get the pea coat of your dreams when it’s made-to-measure. Not only will it fit you perfectly, but you can add on all your favourite details exactly as you like them.
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Checked Double Breasted Peacoat |
Grey Peacoat with contrasted Collar |
Remember, the pea coat should be the outset layer of your outfit; the only pieces that should ever be over a pea coat are carefully selected accessories. However, the ultimate way to wear this coat is to keep all layers and garments (including scarves) underneath it.
If you wish to follow the proper pea coat style rules, look at the jacket above: To have the original, iconic look, the buttons should be closed, and the length of the jacket should “hit” at the bottom of the hips. Don’t wear a pea coat that’s too long as it will lose the sense of figure-shaping/defining. Also stay away from wearing pea coats that are too short as these will make you look “rounder” than what you are.
As we’ve seen in this post, the pea coats come in many colors and looks. Don’t forget to choose the style and color of the pea coat the way you want it.
Bonus🔥
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FAQs:
1. What is a pea coat?
A pea coat is a short, double-breasted wool coat, traditionally navy blue, with a large collar and anchor-embellished buttons, originally designed for naval uniforms.
2. Why is it called a pea coat?
The name "pea coat" comes from the Dutch word "pije," meaning coarse wool, the fabric used in the coat's original design by the Dutch navy.
3. How should a pea coat fit?
A pea coat should fit snugly but comfortably, hitting at the hips and allowing enough room for movement in the arms. The sleeves should reach the top of your hands.
4. Can I wear a pea coat in the rain?
Yes, traditional pea coats are made from heavy wool, which is water-resistant, making them suitable for light rain and wind.
5. What colors are pea coats available in today?
Modern pea coats come in a variety of colors beyond the traditional navy, including black, gray, beige, and even brighter colors like red.
6. How do I style a pea coat for a casual look?
Pair your pea coat with jeans, chinos, or sweaters for a relaxed, casual outfit. You can also add sneakers or boots and accessories like beanies or scarves.
7. Can I wear a pea coat with a suit?
Yes, pea coats can be styled over suits or business attire, providing a polished and professional appearance while keeping you warm.
8. Are there different fabrics available for pea coats?
While traditional pea coats are made from wool, modern versions can also be found in cashmere, merino wool, and even leather, offering various levels of warmth and luxury.
9. How do I care for my pea coat?
Dry clean your pea coat to maintain its shape and quality. Regularly brush off any dirt and store it in a cool, dry place during warmer months.
10. Can women wear pea coats?
Absolutely! Pea coats are a unisex fashion item and come in styles and fits designed specifically for women as well.
